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R2000 print problems
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[QUOTE="VA1DER, post: 218060, member: 15186"] Hi, sorry just saw this thread. There is a lot of information to pass on here, so I'll divide it up. [SIZE=6][U]Ink levels:[/U][/SIZE] As far as your ink level goes, the printer doesn't have an ink flow meter. It isn't measure yellow ink used. It just knows how much ink is in each drop it tries to print and adds them up to get the amount of ink used. So regardless of whether that ink is making it onto the paper, the ink "level" as reported by the cartridge is going to drop any time the printer is actually trying to print that colour. If you clamped off the yellow tube, the yellow ink level would still go down any time you tried to print yellow. [SIZE=6][U]Aftermarket Cartridge Issues: Recognition[/U][/SIZE] Secondly, there are two general issues with the aftermarket cartridges you are using. One is that they are Chinese-made and the auto-reset-chip on them, while the chips themselves almost always work, the contacts on them are just plain copper and not gold or silver plated. The cartridge itself is made of softer plastic and the way the chip is mounted doesn't always consistently make good electrical connection with consistent pressure against the printer's contacts. In short, there can be intermittent times when the chip isn't recognized. I don't have an R2000 myself, but I do have several WF-7720s that use almost identical cartridges. I have found that a spray of deoxit helps, both on the cartridge chip and on the printer's contacts. That being said, there have been times when my printer stops recognizing a cartridge right in the middle of a print and I have to take it out, spray it, center the chip (which on mine is removable and can have its position manipulated slightly). [SIZE=6][U]Aftermarket Cartridge Issues: Priming[/U][/SIZE] The second general problem aftermarket cartridges have, especially of the style you are using, is a bad tendency to not be properly primed. I think you are likely to have an air bubble and here is why. First the refillable cartridges need to have the air-return hole unplugged. Also these cartridges have an ink and air-return path that is resistant to flow until the ink path has been fully (and most often forcefully) wetted. Surface tension in the ink otherwise often prevents proper flow - there are usually little ink filters inside that especially do not like to let ink flow through them until they are wetted and have had ink drawn through. Until there there is often air in the system, of particular issue for you is that there is almost always an air bubble just above the check valve that then lets air get into the printer tubing. At this point you likely have an air bubble inside the yellow tubing. More on the remedy for this below, but it will involve using the aftermarket yellow cartridge, so make sure your aftermarket cartridges are primed properly. You need a syringe and possibly [URL='https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32886314845.html']a special end for it[/URL]. You put the syringe end up the output valve of the cartridge high enough that it activates the valve ball and draw ink through. Some syringed can do this themselves, but often you need the end I linked. I do this about 3 or 4 times, putting the ink right back in the cartridge. You will be able to feel the resistance at first then hear the path clear and will feel the ink draw through easily. Just be careful you never draw all the ink out at once. When you put the ink back in there will likely be a few bubbles on top, this is fine as long as they don't get drawn through. [SIZE=6][U]Cleaning Solution[/U][/SIZE] Whomever told you not to use any cleaner with ammonia in it gave you some very bad advice and totally doesn't understand Epson ink chemistry. Epson inks are all water based. Because of this, they would not normally be water-fast so they use chemistry tricks to make it more water resistant after they dry. They do this by being formulated to be water soluble only when they are at a slightly basic pH. They become water-fast by reacting with carbon dioxide in the air as they dry to neutralize the base and become slightly acidic (CO2 dissolved in water becomes carbonic acid). Dried Epson ink doesn't dissolve well unless the cleaner you use is slightly basic, and ammonia is the best way to do that. A great ink cleaner to make at home is 75% alcohol with 25% Windex (the kind with ammonia). You don't need to buy special ones. [SIZE=6][U]Way Forward:[/U][/SIZE] The most likely problem you have, or at least started with, is air in the printer ink path between where the yellow cartridge inserts and the print head. Attempting to print solid yellow isn't a terrible idea. When I have experienced similar issues with a single colour, I generally intermix a major head cleaning with trying to print a page or two solid of the troubled colour. Use the (properly primed) aftermarket cartridges so you're not wasting expensive ink. I have seen it take up to 5-6 major head cleanings to get some air bubbles out. Head cleanings will end up pulling a lot of other colours through too and stressing the ink pads, though. If there is dried ink blocking the path the most likely location for that is where the cartridge inserts and the spine penetrates the cartridge. If nothing works, then post again. [/QUOTE]
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